Despite the merriment in Sines the night before followed by a music session back on the boat the alarm goes off at 05:30 and we drag ourselves out of our bunks and into our smelly oilies. By 05:45 we have slipped the lines and motor out of Sines and head south. Another perfect sunrise greets us over the laden container ships in the harbour. Its 15 kts already and forecast to build to 25. We decide to motor sail for a spell to get some miles under our belt. There is a big swell and we surf south at 9 knots. More dolphins under the bow. The wind builds and the white caps and rollers glisten against the pure blue sky. The engine goes off and we continue at 9 kts. As the southern tip of Portugal comes into view the swell is such that the cliffs disappear occasionally as we sink in the trough of a wave. The boat is pitching and tossing in the confused sea.
We round Cabo St Vincent into smoother water. The cliffs are gouged and arches and caves are everywhere.
We harden up onto a beam reach and fly along the Algarve. Wind now 25 kts. The coast is littered with holiday developments.
Soon we approach Lagos, a really pretty town accessed by a canal and we resister and get clearance to go under the lifting bridge and find our berth.
So the 1000 mile charge down the Atlantic Coast is coming to an end. No more big rollers and empty seas.
Let's hope there are more fish in the Med!!
After a welcome shower we head into the old town of Sines. We share a couple of beers with a local chap who works at the local refinery, one of the largest in Europe. He turns out to be just as politically minded as the last guy but very entertaining. There is only one restaurant open but what a find. Fillet steak, some local wine and Ted fancies a Famous Grouse whisky. We make it 4 and the owner places 4 large brandy glasses on the table and proceeds to empty a fresh bottle between us! We do our best and just as we drain these he brings us another bottle with compliments. As we plan to depart at 6 am for Lagos we just have a small one for the road.
Forecast is perfect again for another passage south but we elect to not do an overnight this time but just 60 miles to Sines.
Not a cloud in the sky and the breeze starts off a gentle 10 kts so we motor sail for a while relax. As the breeze picks up we kill the engine and Colin and Andy get the fishing tackle out. Not had much time or opportunity for fishing so far.
A minkie whale cruises by. Plenty of gannets and a pod of dolphins but no fish.
The wind is now 25 kts and we scream into Sines for some interesting pontoon bashing.
The most expensive marina so far but great facilities and service. And just look at those yachts and gin palaces.
The town isn't bad either! !
Managed to find a great family restaurant out of the tourist area on the sea front and enjoyed some local seafood
With 15 kts NWS forecast for the next couple of days it should be perfect for our 30 hour passage to Cascais near Lisbon. We slip at 7 am in glorious sunshine and follow the Spanish Coast south for a few miles and enter Portuguese water. The courtesy flag is changed. The coast line is hilly and green dotted with bright terracotta buildings and several wind farms. The Portuguese dialect seems harsh almost a Russian twang compared to Spanish.
We are being caught by something fast and vast so we tweak the rig and keep our height of course! Turns out to be a 55 foot Hanse called Althane. We exchange greetings and photos both heading for Cascais.
More dolphins chase us as we watch the Sunset.
Ted cooks a great fry up in a bowl for supper and we set the watch in pairs 2 hours on and 2 hours off.
The sky is still cloudless and no moon till 3.30 so the stars jump out and we spot 2 shooting stars and a great view of the milky way
The breeze is perfect 18-20 kts and we are flying along broad reach at 9 kts with nothing near is for miles. No engine needed on this leg!
Dawn greets is with a spectacular sunrise. Later the wind turns more northerly and we sail goose winged for a few hours. We sail between the islands towards Lisbon in t shirts and 20 kts as we harden up onto the beam again for the last 20 miles.
Cascais looks like a great spot so we find a berth and go into town to explore.
As usual just a quiet drink before having supper on the boat. The first bar was a few blokes playing cards. The next was warm and welcoming to say the least. Soon after ordering we were befriended by the thought to be "manager" who entertained us with his healthy knowledge , pasionate politics and language of the uk having been a student and lawyer there for 15 years. We were all offered jobs and goods living to join him in Spain but alas we ended the night having eaten his fantastic tapas and drunk fine rioja for FREE!!!
The rough weather of the last 24 hours was calming down but we needed to get further down the Spanish Coast before the next storm hit the northern coast of Spain. Leaving at dawn we fly down the coast on a glorious fetch with 15 - 20kts Westerly and sunshine, big rollers as ever and through the islands past the various rias of this picturesque coastline.
Just 50 miles today we are getting into this!
We tie up in Baiona marina and head for the showers. We are starting to st
ink!
We walked through the old town to the square. Found a great bar for a couple of Estrella beers. Every round we were treated to free tapas so why rush back to cook? As we tried to leave the heavens opened so no choice but to stay for a few more. Ted was on the wine and found a particularly fruity one! ! See the photo of the label.
Today we leave the Bay and head south past Cape Finisterre or Cost Del Morte as it is better known. Leaden clouds and a cold 20kts cetainly added to the drama of the Cape. As we rounded the corner the white capped rollers and side current entice us towards the foam covered rocks. We need to head 20 deg high just to maintain out heading.
But the coastline is dramatic and odd glimpses of sunlight make it spectacular.
Once round the Cape we are soon in Muros on a pontoon and off for a well earned beer!
